Pomerol Seduction 2008s

Besides the northern Medoc, it was Pomerol that seemed to stand out for me during the week of tastings. This group of chateaux are all located on and around the plateau of Pomerol.

 

Chateau Beauregard, AOC Pomerol

Star bright colours and aromas. Very tightly packed fruit (70% merlot, 30% cabernet franc, over 17.5 hectares), this is the punch that Pomerol can deliver. Smoothed out tannins that are very supple, but lacks some final lift. 89-90

Clos du Clocher, AOC Pomerol

This small estate covers 4.5 hectares very close to Pomerol village. Usually representing excellent value for money, the picking here began on 13th October for the merlot and ended on 17th for the cabernet franc, with very healthy grapes that meant levels of sulphur were the lowest since 2005. Gorgeous colour. 80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc. Well defined ripe fruit, quite a big wine in fact, but with an underlying freshness that keeps it perfectly in balance. Lovely gentle perfume on the nose, excellent. 92-93.

Chateau Clinet, AOC Pomerol

One of the darkest in colour of the tasting, this is polyphenol rich, a real boy’s wine in colour. Exuberant under all that tannin and pure power. Terribly smooth tannins again, this is a big, tembling wine. Very interesting, a big hitter, even if not one that I might necessarily choose to have in my own cellar. 91-92

Chateau La Conseillante, AOC Pomerol

Big, fruity nose, exuberant, more new oak and fresh fruit. 86% merlot, 14% cabernet franc. 90% new oak, but all the cabernet franc in tanks, giving a lovely juicy character. Harvesting from September 26 to October 1 for the merlot, October 7 for the cabernet franc. This underwent a four-day cold soak, and four days total maceration, from harvest to running off – quite long for this property, but they were very happy with the quality of fruit this year. Small amounts of micro-oxygenation during early fermenation, just to feed the yeasts (pumping over also just on first phase, then stop to keep freshness). For the first time this year, they also did co-innoculation, adding yeast and bacteria at the same time to carry out alcoholic and malolactic fermentation at the same time (a technique that is far more popular in the New World than Bordeaux, and I have only heard of one other estate in the Medoc that does it). Whatever the techniques, this is an enjoyable wine. On the palate, there is firm red fruit, redcurrants and black cherries, very textured, very big but successful. A pleasure. 94-95.

Chateau Gazin, AOC Pomerol

A lovely minty freshness on the palate of this wine. Even so, this is a touch less elegant perhaps than some years of Gazin, as perhaps owner Nicolas de Baillencourt would agree, because the vintage itself just seems to have brought out powerful, well structured wines that are rich rather than elegant. But all of these Pomerols have stunningly smooth, well knit tannins, really very good level of quality here. 92.

Chateau Vieux Maillet, AOC Pomerol

The Pomerol Seduction tasting was held at this attractive property, that has been under new Belgian-French ownership since 2003 and has had the vat rooms and cellars fully restored. 90% merlot, 10% cabernet franc. Harvest on September 23 to October 4. 60% new oak, 40% one year. Again very good ripe fruit, a well-rounded and balanced palate, good acidity and structured tannins. Not the most exciting wine in this very good line-up, but still very good. 88-90.
 

Chateau Mazeyres, AOC Pomerol

This one is full of smoky overtones, good ripe tannins, 80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc, 50% new oak. This is Alain Moueix’s other property than Fonroque (in Saint Emilion), but this one is not biodynamic – although it is TerraVitis, so sustainable agriculture. Good structure, clean fruits, less exuberant than some on display here. But very nice length, that plays with you a little in its subtlety. Good. 89.

Chateau Petit Village, AOC Pomerol

78% merlot, 18% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc. The only one in this small tasting with cabernet sauvignon, because there is a lot of gravelly terroir here. Harvest from September 28 to October 14, stopping when necessary along the way to ensure full ripeness. The cabernet sauvignon brings slightly more serious tannins than the others here, and it cearly needs more time to develop, but it has enormous potential. Stephen Derenencourt consults here, and ensures more pigeage (punching down) than remontage (pumping over), trying to keep the softness of the merlot. Cold soaking also, lovely depth of flavour. 90-91.