Pessac Leognan
Overall, the whites don’t seem quite as good as the 2007s, which was an exceptional year, with more variation in quality – although some of the usual star performers have again managed to deliver lovely wines. The same is true for the reds – there are some solid performers (and Haut Brion was my wine of the vintage), but overall this was the most up and down of the tastings for me.
La Chapelle la Mission Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
A gorgeous rich bright purple. This has a very nice punch of fruit, really terribly elegant, and there is a lovely density and length. Really charming. Picking dates about 10 days before the Medoc, and ended around the same time. Red grapes 23rd September until the 17th of October (latest date since 1988). Such a lovely wine. 39% merlot, 56% cab sauvignon, 5% cab franc. 92-93.
Le Clarence de Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
Richer and deeper nose that La Chapelle, and slightly deeper purple in colour, although there is no hint of extraction in these wines as there has been in others. Rich in tannins, and they have real weight to them, but again the finish is light as a feather, and very attractive. 45% merlot, 41% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc. 92.
La Mission de Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
43% merlot, 51% cabernet sauvignon, 6% cab franc. This has a lovely elegance and richness to this wine, such sweet dark fruits that really just rise up with the beautiful acidity. Very fresh, very good structure, and gorgeous crab apple, slightly sour in the nicest way, that gives it such character and fully balanced. Cropped at 46 hl/h, they were not affected by the frost at this vineyard, unlike many in Pessac Leognan. About 40% of the overall production went into La Mission, another 40% into La Chapelle, and around 20% declassified (over at Haut Brion, 35% went into the main wine). Wonderful length, and wonderfully succulent tannins, with a very good structure. 94-95.
Chateau Laville Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
79% Semillon, 21% sauvignon. So happy to be tasting this after doing a vertical of the last five years of this wine just seven days ago!! There is such a clean burst of fresh fruit here. It has the sweetness and round lemon curd of the semillion, and you can feel the hints of sauvignon bringing acidity, but nothing is cloying. The quality of these compared to some others in Pessac Leognan is a bit sad really. Was it so hard to do this good a job? Harvesting from September 8 until 23 (day started with the reds) – late and long. Gorgeously juicy. Slightly lower acidity than last year perhaps, but it is utterly lovely. 92.
Chateau Haut Brion Blanc, AOC Pessac Leognan
Jean Philippe Delmas, ‘Since 2004, the whites have been quite consistent with us. In all these vintages, there is a wonderful balance between freshness and level of alcohol. There is a lovely depth of flavour. Two weeks, 5 hectares, 100 pickers for the white wines (200 for the reds!). This is slightly juicier than the Laville, slightly more exotic, gourmet in flavour, there is a higher sauvignon content in this, 55% Semillon and 45% sauvignon blanc. 94 .
UGC BLIND TASTING, WHITES
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte , AOC Pessac Leognan
Lovely pale yellow in colour, some heat on the nose, but also some nice honeysuckle and exotic fruits. On the palate the alcohol is slightly too intrusive. Underneath though, there are fresh apricots and citrus fruits, and the toasty oak should soften and balance things over the next few months in barrel. An exuberant white, enjoyable. 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% Semillon, 5% sauvignon gris. 90.
Chateau Brown, AOC Pessac Leognan
Really enjoyed this (tasted at the chateau, not part of the UGC blind tasting). Integral vinification after cold settling, lees stirring, the whole bit – but it manages to taste very fresh and clean. 70% sauvignon blanc, 30% Semillon. 90.
Chateau Pique Caillou. AOC Pessac Leognan
Owned by Isabelle and Paulin Calvet, this 20 hectare estates give over just one hectare to its white wine. Nice reflective colour, very star bright. And a fresher nose, evident fruit. This is gentle, very citrus-focused, and has lovely mouth-watering qualities, if a little simple. But fresh and frank. Good. 88-90.
Chateau Pape Clement, AOC Pessac Leognan
Some new oak evident on this nose. Slightly cloudy, must still be undergoing batonnage. Oak also evident on the palate, but this is nice and lemony and has really juicy fruit. Perhaps a little sweet, but good length and certainly has impact. Michel Rolland consults on this wine, as he does with the red. 92.
Chateau Olivier, AOC Pessac Leognan
One of the six Pessac Leognan estates that are classified in red and white wines. Very different nose, they are really working this. Rich sauvignon aromas, foot to the metal. Juicy fruit on the palate, it has good mid palate, slightly candyfloss taste, but there is a lot going on here, good complexity. Clearly battonage going on, the whole bit. 90-92.
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, AOC Pessac Leognan
The Bonnie family have done a lot of work at this estate over the past few years, and the white wine has Michel Rolland and Athanas Fakorellis. Back to star bright fruit. Subtle nose, with crab apple rather than lemon. Slightly sour, though I am a big fan of lively, acidic flavours at this stage of white wine making, and it finishes strongly with the citrus fruit coming through. 90.
Chateau Latour Martillac , AOC Pessac Leognan
Chateau owned by the Kressman family. Very delicate and subtle, flowery overtones (I assume from the touch of muscadelle that is usually present in this wine), really like this. And has the right balance of gripping acidity that is not astringent, just right for ageing well. Slightly hot finish, but this is very good. 92.
Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
Despite the name, this property is in fact right next door to Smith Haut Lafitte, and nowhere near Haut Brion. Muted nose. On the palate this has a lack of freshness, although they have definitely tried hard with the winemaking, and there is nothing ostensibly wrong with it. Just lacks a little definition. 88.
Chateau La Louviere, AOC Pessac Leognan
A reliable André Lurton estate, but this is an example of a 2008 where the freshness is too low. Definite complexity here, but it is being hidden by alcohol, and is out of balance because of low acidity. Good length, some potential. 87.
Chateau Haut Bergey , AOC Pessac Leognan
Slightly deeper yellow, and more exotic fruits on the nose. Vanilla, sweet new oak, lovely passion fruit and clear papaya. Really like this enormously. There is a great seam of freshness running through it, and real mouth-watering quality. Yes it’s modern in style, but it works. 91.
Chateau de France, AOC Pessac Leognan
A more sauvignon nose, there is a subtlety on this one. But on the palate it is very one-dimensional. You get the fruit and the grassy sauvignon aromas, but it isn’t back upped by enough freshness, or enough structure. Young and has some admirable qualities, but overall not the most interesting on display. 88.
Chateau de Fieuzal, AOC Pessac Leognan
An open frank nose, and slightly more intense colour. Like this. Very clean, well defined fruit. There is oak, which creeps up to being just a little obvious, but the charm and freshness of the fruit balances it out well (how it will develop with more time in barrel though might be an issue). But there is a lot to like about this wine. 91 (at de Bouard tasting gave this 92).
Domaine de Chevalier, AOC Pessac Leognan
All about the sauvignon (the wine is about 70% sauvignon). Grapefruit and citrus on the nose. This also has a disarming frankness about it. Very juicy, very good pink grapefruit that has bite but still a little sweet. Good. 90-91.
Chateau Carbonnieux, AOC Pessac Leognan
Some vanilla on this nose, not sure it really works. This lacks the depth of fresh fruit that some of the others have had. Would like to retaste as feel sure this must be the sample, it is usually such a lovely unforced white wine. 86.
Chateau Bousaut, AOC Pessac Leognan
Still some lees stirring going on with the colour, as it is slightly cloudy. Evident lees on the nose also, giving it slightly brioche smell. Slightly sour and pinched compared to some here, but there is certainly good complexity going on. Alcohol quite high. There is definite interest here, and it is one that opens up and deepens in the mouth. 89.
Chateau Rahoul, AOC Pessac Leognan
Back to very clear, pale, star bright. Interesting sweet, stone fruit nose (up to 70% Semillon in this wine, and you can really tell). Good length. I like this in fact. A very classic Pessac Leognan that is quite unforced, not trying too hard. Owners the Thienot Group bought CVBG in 2007. 89.
Chateau Ferrande, AOC Pessac Leognan
Slightly over-oaked on the nose, but there is good fruit here also. Hmmm, in fact the nose has slight burnt rubber (a smell that has been linked to under-ripe phenolics). Lacks some mid-palate. It has delicacy, and there are some floral aromas, but overall not successful. 86.
Chateau de Chantegrive, AOC Pessac Leognan
Not the best nose either on this one. This has interest, and quite a good balance, because there is fruit, alcohol and some structure. But feels slightly disjointed. One to re-taste after ageing, to see if these things come together. 88.
UGC BLIND TASTING, REDS
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, AOC Pessac Leognan
A lovely rich colour that veers away from the over-extraction. Some fresh fruit on the palate, and not overly drying tannins, with some very nice firm plum and red fruit as it opens up. Well balanced. 89-90.
Chateau Pique Caillou, AOC Pessac Leognan
Nice colour. Weird nose, this is heavy in alcohol and has a cassis nose, crème de cassis. Heading towards over-extraction. Trying to get the most out of the fruit that just isn’t there. 86.
Chateau Pape Clement, AOC Pessac Leognan
I found this one of the most difficult wines to decide on this year, and have tasted it three times now – once blind, once at the Thunevin tasting, and once at the property. It has been quite polarising generally, because it has big extraction and is very modern in style. It has rich colour, with a densely fruit-filled nose, and a real presence that is very attractive. But the tannins are big and thick, and need longer to integrate. From past experience, the oak settles down and the minerality of the appellation comes through, but it is one that I will re-taste again once in bottle. 89-92.
Chateau Olivier, AOC Pessac Leognan
Rich in polyphenols, and this one has fruit on the nose. Really nice weight to the nose here, and good coffee, mocha. There is good weight, and a balanced wine between the freshness, the fruit, the tannins and the alcohol - they don’t punch each other out. It’s not reaching the heights of some of the northern Medoc wines, but it really is very nice. 91-92.
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, AOC Pessac Leognan
Again rich in colour, good polyphenols. This nose is rich on fruit, and on the palate also there is good matiere. Definite potential – rich tannins from the fruit that are weighty and well ripened, with a depth that seems entirely fitting with the wine at this stage of evolution. 90-92.
Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
The primeur purple that I like in Bordeaux – vibrant, pinky-violet and very fresh. The nose also is engaging. I like this, it is perky, fresh, and although not enormous depth, it has good fruit which is certainly not the case in all of these samples. Good. 90.
Chateau Latour Martillac, AOC Pessac Leognan
Deep, rich in colour. Like the nose on this, has maybe some overextraction, but in this case there is fruit to over-extract. Quite deep in flavour, there is a lot of oak that threatens to flatten proceedings, but manages not to do so. Brooding, a Marlon Brando of a wine, and has some very nice rich plum flavours. 92.
Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion, AOC Pessac Leognan
This is again quite brooding, heading towards over-extraction. It must be tough if the fruit isn’t ripe enough to know what to do!! Do like the silkiness of this, but the tannins are I’m afraid a bit green. Very strong tobacco leaf. 87.
Chateau La Louviere, AOC Pessac Leognan
Back to black. Deep inky colour here. Velvety nose, some damson jam, packed full of oak. Pleasant opening to the palate, with a punch of black fruits, but it is tapering off into a drying tannic finish. Not enough mid palate to ride the wave, as it were. But I like the rich burnt coffee notes. More successful than the white this year. 89.
Chateau Haut Bergey, AOC Pessac Leognan
Very nice vibrant pruple, lovely reflective rim that is staining the side of the glass. Good coffee and mocha on the nose. I like this. It has nice structure, and good freshness that counters the tannins. And there is some fruit here, although yes could do better. Still, evident damsons, black cherries and crème anglaise. 91.
Chateau Haut Bailly, AOC Pessac Leognan
Nice light touch on the colour, rich and ruby but not sulky. There is some red fruit on this nose, haven’t seen too much of that. One of the more interesting ones. Some subtle notes of mint and savoury herbs. A little lightweight at first glance, but it has a subtle elegance. Nice damson fruit on the nose, and a good colour that is deep and polyphenol rich without being too over-extracted. 92.
Chateau de France, AOC Pessac Leognan
One of the deepest in colour so far, but saved by a nice ruby rim. Evident firm oak on the nose, but some black fruits also. The nose has the smoky liquorice that comes from the oak, but there seems good matiere also. There is the nice burst of acidity that stops the tannins from becoming over-powering. My issue would be the alcohol, which is clearly quite high. But certainly potential for ageing. 90.
Chateau de Fieuzal, AOC Pessac Leognan
Fairly closed nose, some cherries and damsons evident. Sticky tannins and some good freshness that is trying to lift things up and give it structure. Smooth and silky once the palate gets into its stride. 90 (again, at de Bouard I gave this one point more. Is this a comment on blind and non blind tasting?!).
Domaine de Chevalier, AOC Pessac Leognan
Like the nose on this. A lovely cherry red colour and an open, cedary nose. Good coffee, mocha, very nice matiere, chewy tannins that are good and solid without being drying. And there is fruit here also. Good. A success in both colours this year. 92.
Chateau Carbonnieux, AOC Pessac Leognan
Sweet fruit, nice chewy tannins, and some good freshness. Think this has definite potential, needs some good time to age. But there is potential here, one of the most interesting in terms of actual fruit in the glass. 90.
Chateau Bouscaut, AOC Pessac Leognan
One of those fresh frank noses! The problem for me with a lot of these is lack of balance with the oak. But I like this one, it does have chewy, quite big tannins, but they are not drying. The alcohol is quite high, but there is some fruit. Overall, it is quite balanced, even if big. Coffee and mocha again, which I think signifies that there is a general lack of fruit in Pessac Leognan and so the oak barrel flavours are dominating. But certainly not the worst offender. 88.
Chateau Rahoul, AOC Pessac Leognan
This starts with a punch, has some nice fruit, but again we are lacking complexity and charm. These are just all a bit uninteresting. They are trying hard and have the component parts in many cases, but just lack the overall elegance that Pessac Leognan has in abundance in a normal year. 88.
Chateau Ferrande, AOC Pessac Leognan
Nice colour, lovely vibrant reflective rim, again that lovely glass-staining colour. The nose is quite open. Definitely interesting, and has very nice sweet black fruit. Stripped out a little by the oak after a minute on the palate though, and ends more forced than singing. But good potential, there is definitely something here that can develop. 87-88.
Chateau de Chantegrive, AOC Pessac Leognan
60% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon. This is fine, has some structure, but the tannins are a bit drying, and again it is just the lack of really nice fresh fruit that brings it down. 87. (tasted it at Angelus and gave it exactly the same).