
Pessac Leognan was not even an appellation until 20 years ago, when enough lobbying went on to convince the powers that be that this northern part of Graves contained enough big name properties to merit special recognition. They got this in 1987 (and they said Bordeaux couldn't change!), and it contines to be, for me, the most exciting appellation in Bordeaux. The wonderful white wines of Pessac Leognan (the only classified whites in Bordeaux, incidentally) I will put into a separate section. This small appellation almost runs right into the city centre, and extends down through the towns of Pessac, Leognan and Martillac. Beyond this, further south towards the market town of Langon, the region of Graves makes elegant red and white wines that manage to combine some of the approachability of the Right Bank with the long-life of the Left Bank.
Chateau Haut Bailly, Pessac Leogan 2000
A wonderful rich plum colour and what a successful wine. This is a wine to melt into, with utterly silky, soft tannins but still fleshed out with excellent plum and damson fruits. Plenty of chocolate, toffee and coffee flavours, but never dipping into cloying.
(This wine is around £30 according to www.wine-searcher.com. Tasted during a 10-year vertical from 1998 to 2007 at the chateau, in October 2008.)





















